I met Sarah and Mark in the lobby of a Jaipur hotel. They looked like they had just survived a war zone. Their eyes were wide, glazed over, and they were clutching their water bottles like lifelines. “We just wanted to see the Taj Mahal,” Sarah whispered. “We didn’t know
🟡Introduction I once met a couple in Agra sitting on a curb, looking totally shell-shocked. They were sweating through their clothes and looked ready to cry. They had tried to do Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur in three days, using local buses, in the middle of June. Bad idea. They spent
I was standing in a crowded bazaar in Jaipur, wiping dust off my sunglasses, when a traveler asked me, “Is there actual gold here?” It made me laugh. But it’s a fair question. You look at the brochures, and you see polished marble, elephants, and luxury. You arrive, and you
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